What Paint Does Bob Ross Use? Colours and Brush Cleaning

People often ask me exactly what paint Bob Ross used, usually because they've seen a painting on TV and want to try it at home. As a certified Bob Ross instructor, I use the same type of paints in my classes every week, so here is what matters and why.

Oil, not acrylic

The whole wet-on-wet method depends on paint that stays wet. Oil paint stays workable for hours, so you can lay a colour next to or over another and blend them softly on the canvas itself. Acrylics dry in minutes, which makes this style close to impossible. If you're wondering why your acrylic painting doesn't look like Bob Ross's, this is the reason.

Firm paint matters more than the brand

Bob Ross's paints were deliberately thick and buttery. That's important, because paint that's too soft slides around on the Liquid White and won't hold a highlight on a mountain or a tree. If you can get Bob Ross branded oils, they're designed for this style. Otherwise look for firm, artist-quality oils rather than soft student ranges.

The 13 colours, and what each one does

• Titanium White: clouds, snow, highlights and lightening any colour.
• Phthalo Blue: a strong, bright blue for skies and water. A tiny amount goes a long way.
• Prussian Blue: a darker, deeper blue for stormy skies, evening and the shadows in evergreens.
• Midnight Black: the darkest tone, used sparingly for night skies and the deepest shadows.
• Dark Sienna: a rich brown for tree trunks, rocks and earthy shadows.
• Van Dyke Brown: a deep, warm brown used to darken mixes and paint banks and ground.
• Alizarin Crimson: a dark transparent red, mixed with blues for purples and with yellows for rich oranges.
• Bright Red: a warm, vivid red for autumn leaves, barns and sunsets.
• Sap Green: the workhorse green for grass, bushes and trees.
• Phthalo Green: an intense cool green, best used in small amounts to deepen other colours.
• Cadmium Yellow: a bright yellow for sunlight, glowing skies and leaves.
• Yellow Ochre: a soft, earthy yellow for sand, dry grass and warm light.
• Indian Yellow: a warm golden yellow for sunsets and autumn.

You don't need all of them on day one. White, a blue, a brown, a green, a crimson and a yellow will already paint a surprising number of scenes. My beginner supplies list shows what to buy first and what you can skip.

Liquid White, Liquid Clear and Liquid Black

Liquid White is the one you can't do without. It's a thin white paint brushed over the whole canvas before you start, so every colour you add blends smoothly into a wet surface. Liquid Clear and Liquid Black are optional extras used for specific effects, and I wouldn't buy them until you've done a few paintings.

What did Bob Ross use to clean his brushes?

This is the other question I'm asked all the time. Bob Ross cleaned his brushes with odourless paint thinner. He pushed the brush against a screen in a can of thinner to loosen the paint, wiped it on paper towel, and then famously "beat the devil out of it" by hitting it against the leg of his easel to get the thinner out of the bristles.

• Use odourless thinner, and always work in a well-ventilated room.
• Use a screen or grid in the bottom of a jar or can, so you can scrub paint out without damaging the bristles.
• Clean between colours, especially going from dark to light, or the next colour turns muddy.
• Handle oily rags with care. Rags soaked in oil can heat up on their own, so lay them flat outside to dry or keep them in a sealed metal tin.

In my classes you don't need to bring anything. Paints, brushes, thinner and canvas are all provided, and I'll show you the brush-beating technique in person. You can see class dates on the class dates page, or follow the brushes and tools guide to learn what each brush does.

Frequently asked questions